Umbria is a fantastic region, rural not urban. Assisi, and especially Spoleto, are fantastic. If you're interested in art, Spoleto has breathtaking architecture: its cathedral has a cycle of brilliant frescoes by the Medieval painter Fillipo Lippi; Teatro Romana, a mostly-intact Roman amphitheatre, is still used; Saint Eufemia, a “jewel of a church,” comprises a Romanesque basilica, the Bishop’s Palace with Room of the Bishops, and its unique matronaei (or nun’s galleries); its frescoes date to the 10th C. Italy is an old country and its history runs deep. Many churches, monasteries, convents, abbeys, are Medieval, Romanesque, and (fewer) Renaissance, that contain hidden Roman relics. Foligno is rural and small, but lovely -- lots of delicious olive oil, wine, and delicous trattoria. Bevagna, the same is true, with a lovely piazza the moves at a pace from another time.

Assisi especially Spoleto are brilliant. If you're interested in art, Spoleto has breathtaking architecture. Its cathedral has a cycle of frescoes by the Medieval painter Fillipo Lippi. There's a Roman amphitheatre. Saint Eufemia is a beautiful Romanesque Basilica. I like the city an awful lot. As you know, Italy is an old country, and the history is deep and rich. Churches, monasteries, convents, abbays, are Medieval, Romanesque, and (fewer) Renaissance, with hidden Roman relics everywhere.

Foligno is small but lovely, with lots of delicious olive oil and wine. Many Pizzzerie to choose from, many delicious, all in the tiny center. It may be the cleanest city I’ve ever seen.

Bevagna is small and rural. Look for a butcher there, Marco Biagetti, who may or may not remember me from some years ago. I was taken to his shop by two crazy guys, Antonello and Lorenzo Radi, a couple of architects who helped start il Buco (NYC) with me. Marco’s family are historically butchers in Umbria, going back 5 generations. The tradition goes even farther back in the family of his wife, Rosita Cariani. When they married, it was like the marriage of Henry VIII to Catherine of Aragon, in the way it consolidated two empires, but of butchers, in their case. A wonderful and crazy guy, Salvatore, who farms nearby, sent us to the charming Osteria Antiche Sere in Bevagna (Bevagna is a very small place). If you go there and the weather’s nice, sit outside.  

Macelleria Norcineria Tagliavento
Corso Amendola, 15, Bevagna +39 0742 360897

In addition to the butcher shop, they run the delicious Osteria Scottadito, next door.