HOW TO cook EGGS

After raising chickens at home for many years, it’s hard to find the appeal of commercially raised chickens. Our backyard chickens roamed the garden during the day eating grasses, bugs, worms, pecking stones (chickens need grit to mash their food, as they lack teeth to chew) and were housed in a comfortable coop at night. The remarkable orange-yellow yolks from those chickens were mesmerizing; nothing came close to their rich savor. I often ate poached eggs on toasted country bread, crust trimmed, with olive oil and a mild chili pepper such as (Aleppo or Marash) or cracked black pepper (buy the wonderfully perfumed Tellicherry) as the garnish. Sometimes they were plain with olive oil and salt. Either way, they were wonderful. Look for eggs from smaller farms; they’re often available at a farmers’ market. There is no difference between white shelled eggs and brown shelled ones, but heritage varieties such as New Hampshires, Australorps, Orpingtons are often top quality. Araucanas (or Americanas), lay beautiful pastel green and pastel blue eggs that are a delight to see and delicious to eat.

POACHED EGGS
Start with room temperature or nearly room temperature eggs. Heat a wide shallow saucepan of water to poaching temperature – 180ºF/82ºC; you can hold it that temperature on a low flame. When the water’s hot add white wine vinegar at a ratio of 1 TBL vinegar per quart of water; honestly, it doesn’t matter white or red. Have your eggs ready to crack on a side plate. Swirl the water in circular motion with a spoon. Crack the eggs and drop them into the water just off center of the swirl. Cook large eggs over low heat with no bubbling in the water for 3½ to 4 minutes.  While the eggs are cooking, toast the bread.  When your toast pops up, slather it with unsalted butter and salt the toast with flakey salt such as Maldon, Ceylon, or a similar salt. Lift the egg from the water with a slotted stainless spoon, allow the water to drip off, and touch the back of the spoon to a cloth or paper towel to wick away any remaining water. Gently place the egg on the seasoned, buttered toast. Drizzle the egg with your best olive oil, sprinkle with flakey salt, and sprinkle with chili flakes. Alternatively, grind Tellicherry black peppercorns on top. Don’t delay eating it!

BAKED EGGS WITH TOAST SOLDIERS
Heat your oven to 425ºF/220ºC. You’ll need a small dish, preferably a Spanish cazuela or cast iron, 4-5 inches in diameter for each serving. Place the cazuelas side-by-side on a baking tray and place in the oven until they’re are hot, about 5 mins. Using a pastry brush, coat the inside of each cazuela lightly with olive oil. Break an egg into each cazuela, drizzle the top of each egg with ½ teaspoon of oil, and lay a very fresh sage leaf on top. Return tray to oven and bake eggs for 5-6 mins, until whites are set and yolks remain soft. For a super sexy dish, layer a thin slice of Prosciutto di Parma or Bayonne ham on top. The “soldiers” are sticks of toasted bread ¾-inch wide, cut from a whole slice of bread after it’s toasted. I like a country bread such as levain. Don’t forget the glass of Prosecco to accompany your meal!

SCRAMBLED EGGS
You’ll need per person:
2 eggs
Pinch each of salt and back pepper
TBL unsalted butter, cut in small cubes, plus a thin slice
1 tsp cream
1 tsp chopped chives
1 tsp grated cheese such as Parmigiano-Reggiano, Gruyère, or crumbled fresh goat’s milk cheese

Crack eggs into a medium size bowl. Add salt and pepper, half the butter, and cream. Whisk till blended. Stir in chives and cheese. Heat a seasoned fry pan over medium heat until well-heated, about 2 mins. Turn heat to low, add remaining butter, and swirl in pan to coat pan evenly. Pour egg mixture into pan and swirl to make an even layer. Draw eggs gently from outer edge of pan into center, moving in a circle around the pan at an even pace. When eggs still soft, layer on onto buttered toast on warm plates. Place the thin slice of butter on the eggs and grind black pepper over the top.

Options for garnishing: Marash or Aleppo pepper; wild onion or rocket flowers; thin strips of prosciutto; crème fraîche; bottarga; harissa…

©2015 christopher lee