8-years Vacche Rosso Parmigiano in Spigaroli’s cellar
PIEMONTE RESTAURANTS
TORINO
Dai Salette
Via Belfiore, 37, 10125 Torino
39 011 6687867
Via Borgo Dora, 3
39 011 521 1256
A delicious, beautiful but simple trattoria serving traditional Piemontese cuisine. One of my favorites in Turin.
These dishes are superb: antipasti (including lingua and vitello tonnato)
bollito misto*** (ask for a spoon of brodo)
finanzera (ragout of cock’s combs, liver, sweetbreads)
civet di lepre (delicious, red winey, rich, deep flavor)
risotto di melangrano (pomegranates !!)
selection of moderately priced local wines (I almost always drink Dolcetto) run by a friendly, enthusiastic young man and his lovely female companion. Closed Monday &Tuesday. If you’re Jewish, be aware that the surrounding area is an Arab/Palestinian neighborhood. It can sometimes feel threatening and hostile, with its aggressive graffiti and other intimidating marks, and even the demeanor of the locals. Beware!
Via Bellezia, 37
39 011 436 6553
Charming, warm place with spectacular food (though lots of cell phones- ugh !). Go for lunch if you can’t get in for dinner. Good wine list, lovely dining room. Nice staff. The three hens are the three sisters who own it! Closed Sunday, Monday lunch
dishes to try: piatto di salume (most though not all house made
antipasti caldirisotti (any risotto they make)
gnocchi di castagne al gorgonzola***
Corso Turati, 14
39 011 590 414
Run by the son of a fourth generation Tuscan family (they still proudly say they are Tuscan, though they’ve resided in Turin since 1905, when the great grandfather opened his butcher shop there. They’ve been at their present location since 1957 (it looks like they haven’t changed a thing since then). Really, really, charming guy whose elderly papa makes the coffees and mama who makes the desserts. They serve lots of terrific fish (Tuscany?? Torino??), both on the menu and as specials. We ate tartufi bianchi, tagliarini ai funghi Toscani, which is typical late fall. Closed Sunday.
Piazza Consolata, 5 (behind the Consolata, across from the entrance to the church
39 011 436 9325
Established 1763. Read the fascinating history of this restaurant, run by women for 260 years. Go for your colazione (morning coffee). Order a bicerin – a delicious, layered coffee, bitter chocolate, and whipped cream delight (why doesn’t anyone serve it in the U.S?). Order your little Italian pastry, but be forewarned: even though you’re in Torino, once the House of Savoy and very French, the pastries are the typical Italian ones. Closed most of August.
MAGLIANO ALFIERI (6km outside Alba, on the road to Asti)
Cascina del Cornale
64 Corso Marconi
Magliano Alfieri
39 0173 266 016
Elena Rovera’s special cooperative and agriturismo featuring exclusively local ingredients. The restaurant serves Piemontese food made from Piemontese ingredients. She’s a dear woman, frighteningly intense, and has created a wonderful place. Give her my love. Dolcetto’s the ticket here.
ALBA
Caffè Umberto
Piazza Michele Ferrero, 4
39 0171 441 395
Go downstairs to the stone cellar. Wonderful, classic Langhe cooking, terrific local wines. It’s really an enoteca-osteria. Dinner only. Closed Monday
Check out Il Crutin, a spectacular, idiosyncratic wine shop with many local wines and grappe. The guy’s a trip. Closed Monday
Via Cuneo, 3
0173.293.239
BRA
Osteria Boccondivino
Via Mendicità Istruita, 14
39 0172 425 674
In a sweet little cortile off the pedestrian way near the main square. The place of origin of Slow Food (but OK anyway), the movement’s original Slow Food restaurant. Simple menu. Truffles, rabbit, brasato al barolo, piemotese raw beef salad, good local wines and cheeses. Dis I say drink Dolcetto? Have the zabaglione for dessert- you’ll taste no better. Closed Sunday, Monday
PASTICCERIA ARPINO
Via Cavour, 36
Lovely dolci, great cappucho. Quiet, dignified, but not fancy. No smokers (that used ot mean something). Have a caffè at the bar. And whisper. Closed Sunday
PARMA
If you visit Parma, there’s a special, tiny restaurant outside Langhirano (the place Parma hams are really made) called Locanda del Sale (Via S. Michele Cavana, 5, 43037 Lesignano De' bagni, 39 0521 857170) on the Roman salt road where merchants (or rather, smugglers carried their goods over the mountain from the coast route to avoid paying taxes The gentleman who runs the Locanda - about 8 squished together tables – almost single-handedly. He specializes in salume, as many places in the area do, but with a unique touch. I was with Nicola Ghersetich, whose family run a famous porsciutto house. We were served several extra-aged meats they were experimenting with - coppa al vino rosso, a 2-years coppa rubbed with red wine (inspired by the method for culatello); 2-years prosciutto al vino rosso (remarkable), 6-months pancetta. They were very, very special -- and giant -- made from a 600 lb sow. His pane al maïs is superb. Well worth a trip out of your way. It’s a perfect, simple place, the one we all wanted. His risotti are terrific: choose risotto di Locanda, with rosemary and salami paste.
There’s also La Buca, a very simple osteria in nearby Zibello (Via Ghizzi, 6) on the other side of the autostrada, about 30 miles, run for over 100 years and 5 generations by women. Another special place with great rustic food. Culatello, of course. So much fun!
Via Sbrisi, 3 - 43016 Polesine Parmense
39 0524 96 106
I have to include the relais, restaurant, agribottega, and everything else of Massimo Spigaroli, the king of culatello. A visit to the property, an incredible shrine to salumi – especially culatello – is a necessity for any salumaio. The restaurant is high-end and reservations are absolutely necessary. Be prepared; a visit is an excursion and commitment. The culatello and Parmigiano cellars are incredible.