PASTA ALL’ ORTICHE — MADE WITH WILD NETTLES 

Makes 4 servings 

I first tasted this delicious pasta at Ristorante Da Delfina, in the hill town of Artimino, about 20 miles outside Florence. Wild nettles grow in abundance on the slope behind the restaurant, and Nonna Delfina, who recently passed at 100 years, would herself collect what the kitchen needed for the daily menu. You can often find wild nettles in farmers markets in the spring. They require careful handling, as the tiny prickly hairs pierce the skin and introduce a mild biochemical irritant that can be very annoying and even painful. Many cooks wear gloves to handle them, but I find their gentle excitement is lovely in a certain way; you soon get used to the lingering, tingling sting, far softer than a bee’s but not without notice. It subsides after a short time and after a thorough hand washing. There are anecdotal claims of the benefits of the nettle’s sting, but no science on it, likewise claims about methods to assuage the pain. Pecorino toscano is correct for this pasta, as you’ll find in Tuscany, though I prefer the sour sharpness of Sardinian Pecorino to Pecorino toscano. A Carmignano or young Chianti DOCG would be the perfect pairing to the pasta. 

60 g spring garlic, finely chopped
150 ml extra virgin olive oil 
200 g wild nettle leaves
150 g spinach leaves 
30 g Kosher salt 
60 g pinenuts, untoasted
250 g (about 3 ½ cups) short pasta, such as rigatoni or penne rigate 
110 g Pecorino sardo 

Gently cook spring garlic in 90 g olive oil and 60 ml water, covered, stirring occasionally, until soft and sweet. Add nettles and spinach and cook for 30 seconds longer or until greens are wilted. Season with two pinches of sea salt. Cool nettles to room temperature laid on a baking tray lined with baking paper; tip off any excess liquid and save. Puree nettles in a blender or food processor. Thin with reserved cooking liquid if needed. Pound pinenuts in a mortar until smooth. Stir into to nettle puree along with remaining 60 ml olive oil. Correct seasoning. Cook pasta to al dente in boiling salted water and drain, leaving a little water on the pasta. Toss pasta in a circular motion in nettle puree with a pair of tongs. Distribute pasta to warm serving plates and grate Pecorino sardo over pasta. 

©2022 Christopher Lee