PASTA ALLA CARBONARA

Makes four servings

Carbonara is said to have originated in Lazio, the region that includes Rome. it is a classic Roman pasta ‘sciutta, or dried pasta dish, said to have been created in the Second World War from supplies of bacon and eggs of American soldiers. Another story has it that it was created by rural Italian charcoal makers craving a hearty dish in the cold winter. Its true origin is unknown, and both origin stories are specious: The defining ingredient in Carbonara is guanciale – unsmoked, dry-cured pork belly – while bacon, though also from pork belly, is smoked. Some creative versions of Carbonara that include cream or other unusual ingredients, such as peas or mushrooms, appear on menus outside of Italy but they’re not correct. Spaghetti is the proper pasta for carbonara, though you can successfully use bucatini, fettuccini, or linguini instead. While many good Italian reds will pair well with Pasta alla carbonara, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Valpolicella ripasso would be good local choices.

45 ml olive oil
8 g garlic cloves, peeled, left whole
80 g guanciale, sliced into thick matchsticks
2 farm egg yolks
40 g Parmigiano-reggiano, grated
20 g Pecorino romano, grated
400 g spaghetti
Kosher salt
Tellicherry pepper, freshly ground

Warm skillet to medium. Add olive oil to pan. Add garlic and sizzle until lightly browned. Remove and discard garlic. Add guanciale to a warm pan and stir over low heat until fat melts. Do not color guanciale. Shut off flame and leave pan on stove. Do not discard fat. Combine Parmigiano and Pecorino in a mixing bowl. Add half of cheese to eggs and whisk with a fork.

Cook pasta in abundant salted water to al dente, 9-10 minutes. Warm guanciale pan. Stir ¼ cup of pasta water into eggs. Drain pasta and transfer pasta to guanciale pan. Add sauce to pasta along. Toss pasta in sauce in a circular motion until well coated. Transfer to a warm, shallow serving bowl. Sprinkle pasta with remaining cheese and shower with freshly ground Tellicherry pepper.