PASTA ALLA NORMA
Makes 4 portions
Perhaps Bellini’s Norma did inspire its name, its origin is indisputably Sicilian and has been cooked for a very long time, there and elsewhere. Cutting the eggplant in thick slices is the typical Sicilian approach. It’s important that the eggplant are fried in a single layer till deeply burnished, otherwise they turn to an unappealing gray mush. While aged ricotta salata may not always be easy to find, younger ricotta salata is, as is Pecorino romano, a workable substitute. Drink with this one of Arianna Occhipinti’s fine Nero d’Avola, Frappato, or Cerasuolo di Vittoria wines.
3 small, firm Italian or Japanese eggplants, cut into ⅜ -inch rounds
10 g Kosher salt
175 ml extra virgin olive oil, for frying and drizzling
8 g garlic, peeled, thinly sliced
400 g Italian whole peeled tomatoes, drained of their juice, or 180 g tomato concentrate
1 g dried oregano
1 g chili flakes
400 grams penne rigate, rigatoni, or paccheri
½ bunch fresh basil leaves, large leaves torn in half, small ones left whole
120 g ricotta salata
Season eggplant with a sprinkling of salt and drain for 30 minutes. Pat dry. Brown eggplant in a single layer in generous coating of olive oil in a medium hot, heavy bottom or cast-iron pan. Turning eggplant to color both sides. Transfer eggplant in a single layer to a baking tray lined with parchment paper (do not use paper towels – eggplant will stick to paper).
Crush tomatoes with a spoon or potato masher. Sizzle garlic in 50 ml of olive oil in a medium hot, low-sided saucepan Add chili flakes, tomatoes, oregano, and 3-4 g of salt to the pan. Cook over low heat, breaking up tomatoes with a wooden spoon, until well reduced and nearly dry. Cook pasta in abundant salted water to al dente, 9-10 minutes. Stir pasta to avoid it sticking to bottom of pan. Drain pasta, saving a few tablespoons of pasta water to thin sauce. Warm tomato sauce gently in saucepan pan. Add noodles and half the basil leaves. Toss with tongs in a circular motion to coat. Add half of eggplant and toss gently without breaking up eggplant rounds.
Place pasta on a warm platter in a mound. Evenly place remaining eggplant on and around pasta. Sprinkle remaining basil leaves on top and grate ricotta salata over pasta using the largest holes on a box grater.
©2017 Christopher Lee