HOW TO COOK PASTA RAGU  

Ragù Bolognese is made with beef, pork, pancetta, wine, stock, and milk. It’s flavored with rind of Parmesan cheese, dried orange rind, a few tomatoes. As it comes from Bologna, once the center of Northern Italy’s spice trade, sweet spices such as black peppercorn, juniper berry, clove, allspice, and cinnamon all appear. The sauce cooks for along time – 5 or 6 hours – eventually becoming something greater than the sum of its parts. It is best served a day or two after it’s made, when the flavors have had a chance to meld. It does not contain cream or fish sauce, as I’ve seen.

In a shallow saucepan, add a half-cup of water to 1 quart of ragù and bring to a simmer. Warm over low heat until sauce is bubbling hot, stirring to avoid scorching the sauce. Off heat, stir in 1 tablespoon of cold unsalted butter. 

 Meanwhile, cook the noodles according to instructions on the packet. I prefer pappardelle, but many shapes of noodle work. Drain noodles in a colander or strainer. Toss noodles in sauce for 1 minute to release starch from noodles and finish the sauce. Place in warm bowls and shower Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese over top. 

WINE
For this dish choose wines local to Emilia-Romagna: Lambrusco, Barbera, or even Sangiovese. And, for that matter, who would deny a Barolo or Nebbiolo a place at the table?

ACCOMPANIMENTS
Consider pears with walnuts and formaggio di fossa, a special cheese aged for 30 days in a concrete well made for the purpose; warm asparagus with mascarpone and sage; and for dessert, strawberries, or cherries with Balsamic vinegar (only a good one).

RAGU BOLOGNESE 

Makes 8 orders sauce

SOFFRITTO
2 red onions, peeled
2 med carrots, peeled
2 stalks celery
2 cloves fresh garlic
2 cups grapeseed or other light oil

• Chop onions to an even, small size in food processor; chop carrots and celery together to same texture

• Combine chopped vegetables and drain in a sieve until liquid stops dripping; press with a spatula to remove any residual liquid

• Cook vegetables in a heavy bottom pot over low heat until golden brown, stirring often; keep heat low to avoid burning vegetables

• When soffritto is browned, stir in chopped garlic and remove from heat

• Strain oil from soffritto and save oil for browning meat

• Soffritto can be browned a day ahead

RAGU

Olive oil from soffritto; drain off any watery liquid
2 lbs lean beef, coarse ground
2 lbs pork, coarse ground
4 oz pancetta, coarse ground1 c white wine
¾ cup tomato paste
1 small piece parmesan rind, approx 3 oz
½ gallon chicken stock, to cover ragù
1 ½ cups whole milk  

SPICE SACHET

1 TBL black peppercorns
1 TBL juniper berries
1 2 tsp whole allspice
6 spikes clove
1 piece cinnamon stick 2 inches long, broken
1-inch strip of orange peel (use veg peeler)  

• Brown meat in olive oil and transfer to a separate container; deglaze pan with white wine after each batch and add to browned meat

• Combine browned meat, soffrito, tomato paste, parmesan rind in wide, heavy bottom pot

• Add stock and bring to simmer; slim fat

• Tie spices, bay leaf in muslin and add to pot with orange peel

• Simmer gently for 4 hours stirring occaisionally; add milk ½ cup at a time; add milk as previous amount is absorbed

• Cook until tender and ragù is saucy stirring often; add stock or water if ragu becomes dry or begins to stick to bottom of pot

• Transfer ragu to a storage container; serve ragu on second day 

 
©2022 christopher lee